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As it happens, my visit is
halting and hurried because Duchas (in its current nameless form) is
tackling a restoration project which al least is a good opportunity
for another call. From this flat greensward around the friary the
loveliest sight is that of steepled, Catholic, Gothic-Revival parish
church of St Peter and Paul, built in 1879. Eye-catching though this
is, perhaps even more deserving of attention are the broken outlines,
just across the river, of the Church of Ireland collegiate parish
church, also St Peter and Paul, and, dating, like the friary, from the
13th century.
Until quite recently the
chancel, built circa 1300, was used as the parish church; there is a
belfry, built like a round tower, which is reputed to be of pre-Norman
origin and although the poet Seamus O Cinneide lived in Kilmallock, it
is another 18th-century poet Andrias Mac Craith who is
buried in this churchyard.
But this church of St Peter
and Paul, quietly though its stands on the banks of the Loobagh river
and surrounded now by the headstones and monuments of many
generations, is a site which resounds through Irish history. It was
here, in 1600, that the FitzGeralds of Desmond entered the final
chapter of their convulsive odyssey through the 16th
century; although James Fitzthomas FitzGerald had stayed aloof from
the Desmond Rebellion of 1583, his loyalty to the Crown brought no
restitution of the lands and status he had already lost.
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